Some of the buildings with colorful facades have galleries downstairs and the artists’ living quarters upstairs. Coppersmiths’ Street is a lively strip, and definitely the most touristy in Mostar, but is still fun to wander along. It offers some colorful shopping and genuinely beautiful hammered-copper ware. Mostar’s Old Bridge is depicted in every which way, and we saw many blue and white “evil eyes”, a legacy of the Turkish occupation (they believed the “evil eyes” kept away bad spirits). Some shops sell very unique Yugoslav army “souvenirs”—for example, pens made out of bullets. Many stores sell beautiful women’s clothes, mostly in a Muslim style, but more free and “European” than you’d find in the more conservative Muslim nations.